Basil the Simpleton

Once we got to Moscow, we checked into the hostel, and then wandered down to Red Square, where the first thing we did was to explore St Basil's Cathedral. St Basil’s is, as cathedrals go, absolutely crackers. It is in reality far smaller than it appears in the photographs, and looks as if it is made essentially out of lathe and plaster (or gingerbread) and belongs in some Russian-themed of Disneyland. I’m sure the fact that it has existed for 450 years indicates that it was well constructed, but to see it one just gets the impression that Ivan the Terrible, the rather unpleasant first Russian Tsar who commissioned the thing, was on some really strong hallucinogenic drugs. For some reason the cathedral was named after a sixteenth century oddball called Basil the Simpleton, who spent his days wandering around Moscow as a generally idiotic hermit. That seems to me appropriate given the general slightly insane feel of the place.

Inside, of course, the cathedral is blinged out to the max; every wall is painted, every altar is covered in gold, every corner is stuffed with icons. Visually Russian Orthodox Christianity is basically Catholicism writ large; more candles, more incense, compulsory long, Rasputin-like beards for priests, and never-ending services that mostly consist of the priest chanting whilst a revolving congregation bow their heads and make the sign of the cross at every available opportunity. Whilst the church was heavily restricted in its operations during the Communist period, since 1991 it has made something of a comeback; although plenty of Russians still aren't keen, others are re-embracing orthodoxy. I of course have bought a couple of the tackiest icons available - it would seem a shame to go to these places and not come back with a couple of lovely Mary and 'Old Man Baby' pictures.